A midsummer trip to ancient Greece

Sudeshna Ghosh

Overview

Greece as we know is considered the citadel of the western civilization, the Olympic Games and the birthplace of many ancient philosophers. For many Indians and Bengalis residing in Europe it is a destination that features at the top of the bucket list of places to visit. Unlike popular belief of the country being primarily an island or beach destination, much of the country is quite mountainous and offers many winter sports opportunities as well.

Temperatures and best time to visit

We visited Greece in the last week of June, 2022 over an 8 days 9 nights itinerary. It may be noted that the temperatures may be excruciatingly hot often soaring above 40 degrees Celsius during this time of the year. Although the holiday season in Finland starts in the end of June, it may be a wise idea to plan a Greek vacation in late spring or early autumn to avoid crowds and also the extreme heat.

Connectivity and prices

There are direct flights by FinnAir, Aegean Airlines and Norwegian Airlines operating between Helsinki and Athens. As expected, ticket prices from Helsinki and possibly all other Nordic cities to Athens are nearly double in comparison to other central European routes. We travelled by Aegean Airlines from Helsinki to Athens and took Norwegian Airlines on our way back.
There is ferry connectivity between Athens and the islands. However since ferry transfers are slower, it is advisable to take flights for inter city transfers if one is trying to get the best of their vacation on a tight time schedule. If booked well in advance, the prices of flight tickets can be quite competitive and comparable to the ferry.

Which islands to choose?

Choosing the right island to spend a memorable holiday in Greece may be a daunting task. The Aegaen Sea which runs along the eastern side of the country is famous for its deep blue waters and the island of Santorini is the favourite place to stay among most travellers. On the other hand, the Ionian Sea which runs along the western side of Greece is famous for its turquoise waters and greener islands. The island of Corfu, Zakintosh and Kefalonia are among the popular islands to stay in, on the Ionian Sea. Some islands also have direct flight from major European cites, although these flights may not operate on all days of the week.

Islands where we stayed in

We spent two nights in the island of Santorini which is a large island famous for white washed houses, chapels with blue domes offering exceptional caldera, volcano and sunset views from its western coast. In Santorini, the best photos worthy spots are found in the village of Oia and Imerovigli. We found quite a few public transport options that run to the various parts of the island from its city center, also known as Fira. The beaches of Santorini are made of volcanic origin rocks and can go without any special mention.

Oia, Santorini

On the west coast of Greece, we had chosen the island of Kefalonia to be our place of abode for three nights. Kefalonia is among the bigger islands on the Ionian Sea. There are plenty of beautiful beaches with turquoise blue waters to visit in this island. The most popular spots to visits are Antisamos beach, Myrtos beach, Melissani cave and Assos village. It may be a wise choice to rent a car for self driving while in Kefalonia, as the island is large and the different spots of attraction are scattered over the island. For travellers not comfortable with the idea of renting a car and driving over mountainous roads, the next best options would be to book conducted tours that are offered by the many tour operators in this region.
We stayed at the small port town of Poros in Kefalonia. Other popular towns of Kefalonia to base in are Skala and Argostoli (city center).

Myrtos beach viewpoint, Kefalonia

Beyond islands and beaches

Athens

We stayed 3 nights in the history rich city of Athens. We explored the Acropolis and shopped for souvenirs and gifts in the neighborhood of Plaka. We stayed close to the city center (Syntagma) and visited all the places of attraction by foot.

Acropolis of Athens

It is advisable to visit this ancient marvel in the company of a professional tour guide. During summer months, early morning or late evening tours of the Acropolis are usually suitable for travellers of all ages. The Acropolis houses the two iconic Greek structures, the Parthenon and the Temple of Nike.
Interestingly the Parthenon which was built in the 5th Century BC has served both as a mosque and a church during various takeovers of the Greek capital in history.

The temple of Nike is famous for the intricate female statues that bear the weight of the temple roof on their heads. The famous sports brand Nike derives its name from the Goddess Nike, the Goddess of speed and victory, who was worshipped inside this temple.

Temple of Nike, Athens

Meteroa, monasteries that are “suspended in the air”

This is a UNESCO heritage site that can be visited on a day tour from Athens. One has to take a 4.5 hours train ride from Athens to the pretty town of Kalabaka. From Kalabaka train station, many tour companies operate round bus service to the monasteries.
The iconic monasteries were built by Christian monks atop the steep rocks in the 1400s with very limited accessibility by outsiders, to escape religious persecution by Turkish invaders of the Ottoman Empire. There are many viewpoints along the way that offer spectacular views of the unique rock structures.
Out of the six monasteries that survive till date, three are open for tourists to visit. However tourists need to observe a conservative dress code such as long skirts for women and full trousers for men to be able to enter these monasteries.
We found this tour to be slightly hectic as a day tour option. The train ride to and from Kalabaka town lasted a staggering nine hours in itself leaving us exhausted with irritable kids, at the end of the day. In hindsight, a more pragmatic approach would have been to stay overnight at Kalabaka and plan the return to Athens on the following day.

Gourmet options

Souvlaki and Gyros with Tzatziki sauce is an affordable street food option while in Greece. It is comparable with our Indian counterpart, Chicken tikka with raita and butter naan.

Lessons learnt during the vacation

  1. Avoid a Greek vacation in the peak of summer.
  2. Expect delays in public transport including flights and trains while in Greece.
  3. Expect a lot of crowd at most place.

In short, this is not Finland!
Also, beaches in Greece tend to be pebbly that require special footwear.

Good part about travelling to Greece

  1. Friendly local people.
  2. Possibility to travel light as there is no need to carry warm clothing or heavy shoes, especially in the summer months.
  3. Prices of food, accommodation, and shopping tend to be on the lower side compared to the Nordics.
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